First-time visitors to Manila tend to suffer from sensory overload.
The great metropolises of South-East Asia have become destinations in their own right. In this issue, we check out family-friendly attractions in the Philippines’ capital, Manila.
This city of 1.6 million people appears to be home to just as many jeepneys – those colourful, idiosyncratic converted jeeps that throng the crowded streets. Pedestrian crossings are merely ways to brighten up the bitumen; there seem to be no road rules whatsoever.
While it takes more than two hours to cover the 6 kilometres from Ninoy Aquino International Airport to our hotel, it’s fascinating to watch the ebullient Filipinos go about their business. The gap between rich and poor is rarely so evident: as we pull up at our opulent hotel, a three-year-old girl dodges traffic to beg for money from passing motorists.
Sofitel Philippine Plaza
The Sofitel Philippine Plaza is breathtaking in its scale and grandeur. A staircase, seemingly from the golden era of Hollywood, graces the entrance to this 609-room palace overlooking Manila Bay.
Arriving at night after our comfortable eight-hour flight, we head straight to the heaving buffet that features every cuisine imaginable – from the best sashimi to Hong Kong-style street food and Spanish paella. The food (delicious, incidentally) is a reflection of the cultural diversity of this 7000-island archipelago.
“The food reflects what the culture is. Everybody wants to be together”, according to our lovely guide, Lily.
The Spanish and American conquistadors left a legacy of great food and efficient service (respectively), while the Filipinos retain their natural warmth and love of family.
There are kids everywhere, even though it’s late at night. The Kids’ Club is open until the wee hours while, during the daytime, they can play in the lagoon-sized swimming pool, complete with waterslides.
We take the lift to our extravagant hotel room to watch nightly fireworks over the bay, before falling into the biggest bed I’ve ever seen for a peaceful slumber.
Shopping
Because of the traffic, you have to plan your visit with military precision.
Filipinos love to shop so, not surprisingly, you’ll find some of Asia’s biggest malls here. The Serendra Mall, for example, spreads across several landscaped blocks in Taguig City, a couple of kilometres from the Sofitel (allow plenty of travel time because of the traffic!).
Inside, there’s a brand new Gymboree where, for the equivalent of A$5, you can leave the kids with qualified carers while you shop to your heart’s content. All the shops are child-friendly with lounges, toys and staff willing to entertain the little tackers, and you can buy most of the well-known American labels for about a third of the usual price.
For the locals, though, it’s not just about the shopping. In the searingly hot summer months, families seek out air-conditioned malls and stay there all day. Many feature indoor parks, educational play centres, vast food courts and, on Sundays, church services.
We hop in a taxi to check out the biggest – SM Mall of Asia in nearby Las Pinas City – which boasts a planetarium and indoor ice-skating rink. The planetarium is inside the Science Discovery Centre, a theme park devoted to space and technology. The highlight for our four-year-old is the Grossology Exhibit, demonstrating how burps are created, while kids can also test their nostrils in ‘You Stink!’. Gotta love grubby little boys.
The shopping is cheap and great quality, particularly the kids’ clothing.
Eating
You’d be hard-pressed to eat a bad meal in Manila. Filipinos live to eat, and their cuisine is eclectic, diverse and delicious.
At Abe Restaurant in Serendra Mall, we dine on kinilaw (raw fish marinated in vinegar and coconut milk, with chilli and onions) and pork adobo (marinated in soy sauce, vinegar, garlic and bay leaf).
The unfortunately-named KKK restaurant in SM Mall of Asia serves sisig (pork cheek and ears) with a squeeze of calamansi (bitter orange).
Filipinos love to sing and dance – sometimes spontaneously, like in a 1950s musical, so try one of the restaurants featuring entertainment. Kamayan-Dads-Siasaki serves up a killer all-you-can-eat buffet, while the Filipino/Spanish Bistro Remedios tempts your tastebuds with fried squid, beef caldereta (liver paste, tomato sauce, chillies and green peas), crispy battered pork and pla-pla (fish with fermented rice – sounds disgusting, tastes amazing!). A group of musicians play traditional Filipino melodies and easy-listening tunes from the West. When I ask what one particular song means, the singer says, “Oh, it’s about love and loss and heartbreak”. Some things are the same the world over.
Makati Shangri-La
Our final night is spent at the Makati Shangri-La, in the centre of the city’s business, entertainment and shopping precinct. The foyer is, again, gobsmackingly gorgeous, and it seems that Manila’s five-star hotels are competing for an opulence award.
You can work out in the state-of-the-art gym, get a traditional hilot massage in the newly-refurbished day spa, choose from the international buffet at Circles (one of the hotel’s eight restaurants and bars), or simply relax in your luxurious spacious room.
The hotel buffets in Manila are the best I’ve had anywhere in the world: no matter how fussy your kids are, they’re sure to find something they like.
On our way to the airport, we decide we will miss mad Manila. Yes, it’s chaotic, difficult to get around, and noisy – but it’s also like being at a fantastic party. You won’t want to leave!
FACT FILE
When to go
November to June is outside the typhoon season.
Getting there
Philippine Airlines flies to Manila from Sydney and Brisbane. The flight takes about eight hours.
Visas
If your stay in the Philippines is less than 21 days, you do not require a visa.
Money
The currency is the Philippine Peso (PHP). At the time of writing, A$1 = 30.87 PHP.
Where to stay
Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila
+63 2 832 6936
Makati Shangri-La
www.shangri-la.com
+63 2 813 8888
Getting around
The jeepneys, while fun, are a bit crowded. Taxis are cheap and efficient.
What to do
Serendra Mall
http://www.ayalaland.com.ph/article/ayala_malls_serendra
Gymboree Play & Music
+63 2 909 7000
SM Mall of Asia
Science Discovery Centre
www.smsciencediscovery.com
+63 2 800 0611
Where to eat
Abe Restaurant
+63 2 856 0526
KKK restaurant
Kamayan-Dads-Siasaki
Bistro Remedios
More information
Best bit: The ebullient Filipino people.
Worst bit: The bomb detectors every time you drive into a hotel compound.
