Holidays with Kids – Great Lakes

The natural wonders of the Great Lakes region in New South Wales make it the perfect family holiday destination.

WORDS: TRACEY SPICER

There’s an image that I just can’t get out of my head.

It’s of former Prime Minister, John Howard, wearing a pair of speedos.

You see, Little Johnnie’s favourite holiday spot is the sleepy seaside town of Hawks Nest in the glorious Great Lakes, three hours north of Sydney.

Driving up the Pacific Highway, I fear I might catch a glimpse of the former PM that will forever change my opinion of this delightful destination.

Tea Gardens

At the southern end of the Great Lakes lie the twin towns of Hawks Nest and Tea Gardens.

The surrounding waterways are home to Australia’s largest dolphin colony and as many bird species as Kakadu, so we decide to go kayaking.

Five-year-old Taj is so relaxed he falls asleep, sitting up, in the front of my kayak, while three-year-old Grace flirts with our guide, Handsome Larry.

Within minutes we spot a mother and baby dolphin, frolicking and playing, just metres away.

It’s a magical moment. (Not for Taj, of course, who is snoring at this stage).

All that paddling builds up an appetite so we head to the renovated Tea Gardens Hotel, which also offers the cheapest family accommodation in town.

Wootton

While the Great Lakes is known for water sports, the region is a burgeoning food and wine destination.

The first course in our holiday degustation is served at the Great Lakes Winery in the verdant hills of Wootton, half an hour west.

Steve and Robyn – corporate escapees from Sydney – farm hormone free, grass-fed Angus cattle.

“That’s Bruce there, next to the gate,” Steve says, of a fine-looking beast.

He proceeds to cook a delicious BBQ dinner accompanied by verdelho and shiraz.

But the piece de resistance is the presence of their kids, Lucy and Jemma, who will happily play with your offspring while you taste the wine.

Equally as charming are Peter and Leanne who run the nearby Wootton Guest house, a beautifully converted country home offering privacy, comfort, and plenty of games for the kids.

Forster

After a hearty breakfast we head to the region’s northern tip for a Free Spirit Cruise around Wallis Lake.

The highlight is a wedge of black swans – around 300 of them – right in front.

The captain lets with kids take charge of steering, although Taj keeps trying to mow down the swans, no doubt thinking he could eat them.

There’s plenty to do for active families as well, with some of Australia’s best surfing and diving spots.

Nick from the Forster Dive Centre takes veterans and beginners alike to see the protected grey nurse colony off Seal Rocks.

Because it’s on the East Australian Current (remember Nemo?), there’s a combination of temperate and sub-tropical fish species, and colourful coral.

Tonight, we’re staying at the luxurious and ultra-modern Sails Apartments, with their wraparound balconies and panoramic ocean views.

There’s nothing quite like waking to the sound of the waves.

We manage to drag ourselves away to have dinner at the family-friendly Box Fish restaurant.

The kids devour the biggest and healthiest kids’ meals I’ve ever seen – chicken burgers with loads of salad and vegetables, spilling from the plate.

Pacific Palms

If Forster is the Gold Coast of the Great Lakes, Pacific Palms is Noosa.

Half-an-hour’s drive south, the enclave encompassing Blueys, Boomerang and Elizabeth Beach boasts splendid surf, sublime cuisine and a family resort.

BreakFree Mobys Beachside Retreat has stylish beach houses, tennis courts, a pool, and possibly the most elegant, child-friendly restaurant in the country.

M Bistro & Bar serves creative cuisine using fresh, local produce: the seafood is simply superb.

Better still, the kids are given their own bright and funky tableware, so they feel like real grownups.

Seal Rocks

A degustation always ends with dessert.

And our last night is the cherry on top.

The Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse, in the Myall Lakes National Park, is the ultimate beachfront accommodation.

The three lighthouse keepers cottages, built in the 1870s, are lovingly restored to retain their old world charm, with all the mod cons: plasma TV, DVD and gourmet kitchen.

The kids tear up the stairs to the top of the lighthouse for sunset views of sapphire seas crashing onto a white, sandy beach, and the unspoiled solitude of the national park.

No wonder this is known as the “last frontier”.

Just when we think it can’t get any better, a chef arrives to cook a five-course meal including canapés.

The Reef Bar Grill does outside catering, perfect for a romantic dinner for two.

We tuck the kids into bed before devouring oysters, lobster bisque, blue eye cod and dessert.

It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

No longer do I have unnatural thoughts about John Howard.

Instead, I think of graceful swans, delightful dolphins, juicy oysters – and the calming waters of the Great Lakes.

footnotes

Great Lakes Tourism

Website: www.greatlakes.org.au

Phone: (02) 6554 8799

Accommodation: