Secrets of Samoa
It’s ironic that the gentle people of Samoa have such a bloody mythology.
The thought occurs to me as we peer into a pool of blood: Vaisuatoto, where the souls of high chiefs do battle.
Dominic, our guide, hacks through thick jungle to reveal the only place on earth where you can see tomorrow – Sunset Point, metres from the International Date Line.
A brilliant orange sun dances on the horizon before plunging into the sapphire sea.
The spiritual significance is completely lost on the children, who scream “I wanna swim in the pool of blood! Pleeeeaaaase Mummy!”
Step back in time
A five-hour flight from either Sydney or Brisbane takes you to the Samoan capital Apia on the island of Upolu, which was devastated by last year’s tsunami.
Savai’i – just an hour’s ferry ride away – escaped the damage.
Here, people live as they did hundreds of years ago: cutting grass with a rusty machete, chasing pigs for the family umu (Sunday roast), or escaping the heat in open-sided fales, which serve as home and tourist accommodation.
Layers of manicured tropical gardens surround each fale, like flouncy rah-rah skirts from the 1980s.
Venerable churches dominate the streetscape: Samoans embraced Christian missionaries more than any other Pacific Islanders.
We can almost hear the angels sing from our luxurious accommodation at Le Lagoto, on the northeast coast.
Forget sleeping-under-the-stars – these fales are five-star, with walls and air-conditioning.
Still, each night we open the louvers to hear the soporific symphony of the waves lapping at the shore.
Turning turtle
Across the road from Le Lagoto is the Turtle Sanctuary, which began as an eco-project to rehabilitate injured greenbacks.
These days, tourists are allowed to swim with the prehistoric creatures.
I’m faintly terrified that Crush from Nemo will live up his name and eat my digits for dinner.
Being a responsible parent, I thrust three-year-old Gracie in front of me as I plunge into the cool, clear waters.
The fear is quickly forgotten as four of the gorgeous giants glide over to nibble at our papaya leaves.
Driving south along the east coast we discover a huge lava field from a catastrophic eruption more than a century ago.
The moonscape is dotted with houses, schools, and a church frozen in time with solidified lava spilling from its windows.
The water on this side of the island is a palette of emerald, turquoise and aquamarine.
But the landscape is a chameleon, with rugged cliffs and wild surf breaks dominating the west.
The day ends with a death-defying act from my middle-aged husband who inexplicably decides to copy the young local boys dive-bombing from the top of the Afu Aau waterfall.
As he crashes into the shallow pool below, Gracie gasps in admiration: “Daddy, you’re a MAN!!!” Sigh.
Bloody Mary
Back on Upolu, there’s a relaxing family holiday on offer at Aggie Grey’s.
In the 1940s, a part-Samoan woman married a Danish sailor then opened a boarding house for American seamen.
This became a world-famous hotel frequented by celebrities; Aggie was immortalised as Bloody Mary in Tales of the South Pacific.
The original hotel in Apia has been joined by a new resort near the airport which is pure paradise, boasting spectacular snorkelling and wide, sandy beaches.
Beautiful, flower-strewn bedrooms open onto balconies with ocean or garden views.
Taj and Grace adore the kids’ club, which provides cooking classes, a playground, games, DVDs and lots of cuddles.
We indulge in a couples’ spa treatment in the middle of the lush rainforest before relaxing by the adults’ pool, cocktail in hand.
The highlight is Aggie’s fia fia, where gorgeous, well-oiled Samoans perform traditional songs and fire dancing, while one of Aggie’s daughters entertains with her repertoire of ribald gags.
Samoa’s other famous resident was the author of Treasure Island, Robert Louis Stevenson.
His sprawling mansion Vailima, in the foothills of Mt Vaea, is now a museum, well worth a few hours.
Our last night is spent nearby at Le Manumea, a boutique hotel set into the hillside with 180-degree ocean views and divine outdoor rain showers.
Across the road you’ll find the best pub in town, the hippy-trippy Zodiac café.
Taj and Grace are tearing around the gardens when the band stops suddenly.
“Hey,” yells the drummer, “let’s sing something for the kids.”
The four burly blokes perform Incy, Wincy Spider, complete with hand gestures.
We have fallen in love with these kind, welcoming people.
Discover the magic and mystery of Samoa before the secret gets out.
Footnotes
Getting there: Polynesian Blue flies direct from Sydney and Brisbane to Apia, the capital of Samoa.
Stay: Le Lagoto
Le Manumea Hotel
Aggie Grey’s Lagoon, Beach Resort & Spa
More information:
Budget fales cost as little as AUD$30 a night, including linen, breakfast and dinner.
