The Great Lakes
The sun, sand and surf of the Mid-North Coast make it the most popular holiday spot in New South Wales. At its heart are the Great Lakes: perfect rain, hail or shine.
A holiday at the Great Lakes is all about water, but it’s supposed to be from below not above.
Buckets of rain fill the kayaks as we weave through the waterways of Tea Gardens, a pretty-as-a-postcard village three hours north of Sydney.
Our guide Handsome Larry doesn’t seem to mind; neither do the kids who are as happy as – well – Larry.
The soporific rhythm sends five-year-old Taj to sleep, slumped over the end of my double kayak, while three-year-old Grace watches a mother and baby dolphin dancing around the vessel she shares with our informative host.
Over Taj’s snoring, Larry says this is home to Australia’s largest dolphin colony, with as many bird species as Kakadu.
Both Tea Gardens and its twin town, Hawks Nest, are dusting off their doilies to cater for the café crowd from Sydney.
The latter’s image as an old-fashioned holiday retreat isn’t helped by John Howard, who returns every year for a sabbatical.
(Lying on the beach, I half-expect to see the former PM in a pair of speedos, Tony Abbott-style.)
While these towns are lovely, half an hour north you’ll find the most spectacular spot on the eastern seaboard.
There are no seals at Seal Rocks, but adventurers come from around the world to dive with the protected colony of grey nurse sharks (they’re the ones that won’t bite you).
Either side of the dramatic headland stretch unspoiled beaches, boasting barely a footprint.
You can camp in the Myall Lakes National Park, or go five-star in one of the self-contained cottages at Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse.
Built in 1875, the heritage-listed keepers’ cottages have been meticulously renovated.
As a special treat, we hire a chef from Forster’s Reef Bar & Grill to prepare a seafood extravaganza, while we sit on the balcony watching the sun set over the thunderous sea.
Priceless.
If Seal Rocks is Byron Bay (pre-tourism), Pacific Palms is Noosa.
In this elite enclave, multi-million dollar homes look down on the surfing hotspots of Blueys, Boomerang and Elizabeth beaches.
Behind the dunes, the stylish M Bistro & Bar serves a delicious and healthy children’s menu, complete with colourful kids’ cutlery.
After eating too many oysters we decide to see them at the source, joining a cruise on Wallis Lake.
The highlight is a 300-strong wedge of black swans, so called because they travel in a V-shape.
At least, they were in a wedge until Taj took control of the steering wheel and tried to mow them down, under the misguided notion that this was our lunch.
Just inland from Wallis Lake is a paradise of verdant hills, vineyards and B&Bs – still undiscovered by tourists.
Wootton is full of tree-changers, which is why corporate escapees Steve and Robyn moved from Sydney to grow grapes and farm Angus beef cattle.
“That’s Bruce there, next to the gate,” Steve says of a large, living steak.
His kids, Lucy and Jemma, play happily with ours as we sip shiraz and verdelho, grown on the property.
The nearby Wootton Guest House ticks all the boxes for a country B & B: comfortable rooms, plenty of books and games, a hearty breakfast, and delightful hosts who respect your privacy.
(Although I did learn a little too much about the art of rabbit skinning from Peter. He seems quite adept.)
Our journey north ends at Forster, the region’s commercial centre.
Actually, it was supposed to be called Minimbah, but the Secretary of Lands, William Forster, apparently crossed out the indigenous moniker and replaced it with his own.
Nice one.
If Pacific Palms is Noosa then this is the Gold Coast, with rows of high-rise apartments lining long, busy beaches.
The ultra-modern Sails Apartments have wraparound balconies with panoramic ocean views, which we could glimpse through the sheets of rain.
It’s a convenient base because you can walk to everything, including the Box Fish cafe where salad and veggies spill from the kids’ plates.
The true test of a destination is how it holds up after three days of torrential rain.
Despite the downpours, the natural beauty and diversity of the Great Lakes provide the perfect setting for a peaceful family escape.
Getting there
The Great Lakes region stretches from Tea Gardens/Hawks Nest, north to Crowdy Head. It’s about three hours’ drive from Sydney.
Accommodation
Sugarloaf Point Lighthouse
www.sealrockslighthouseaccommodation.com.au
Wootton Guest House
Sails Apartments
Things to do
Kayaking
Wine tasting
Wallis Lake Cruise
Surfing
www.greatlakessurfschool.com.au
Diving
Where to eat
M Bistro & Bar – Pacific Palms
(02) 6554 0766
Reef Bar & Grill – Forster
(02) 6555 7092
Box Fish – Forster
(02) 6557 2577
More information
Great Lakes Tourism
